"Cooking is like love; it should be entered into with abandon or not at all." - Julia Child
There aren’t enough words for me to express my deep and sincere love and admiration for this woman. I feel there isn’t any more room in my heart to love her any more than I already do. Julia Child was about so much more than fine French cuisine and cooking. To me she was about an attitude. She was the embodiment of a way of life.
When I was a teenager I watched Julia Child cooking shows on PBS. Four things in particular struck me about her. Right away was the peculiar and colorful tone to her voice. Along with that I remember thinking “wow, that lady looks to be really tall!” as she often appeared to be hunching down over those counters in her quest to cut and mix things – and at 6 feet 2 inches tall, understandably so. Thirdly I absolutely loved the fact that she made mistakes - this made her normal! While everyone else on TV these days always tries so hard to make everything look so flawless, here was this cooking show pioneer who might grab incorrect utensils, have something fall off of a dish when plating, or not land back on the pan after a flip. She would seem a little startled, but nevertheless she would simply recover, act like it was no big deal, and move right along with her recipe. But most importantly, this woman emanated an enjoyment and a passion for what she was doing so electric, so genuine, so sincere, that you couldn’t help but feel that it was part of the lesson as well. Her teachings went way beyond “Add 2 tablespoons of butter and 3 sprigs of chopped parsley.” She was teaching you to embrace cooking as one of life’s greatest pleasures.
Julia brilliantly said that: “Noncooks think it's silly to invest two hours' work in two minutes' enjoyment; but if cooking is evanescent, so is the ballet.” Should the worthiness of pleasure be measured strictly as a ratio of time invested to enjoyment derived, where if this ratio is deemed too high to put in the effort, then engaging in that activity is automatically silliness, a waste of time? Is there no importance, no value at all to be placed in the enjoyment of the activity itself? Does that not carry any weight at all? At Le Cordon Bleu, Chef Bugnard taught Julia that "You never forget a beautiful thing that you have made” and that “Even after you eat it, it stays with you – always.”
I propose that someone who thinks it’s too much trouble to make mousse au chocolat is someone who has yet to experience the true meaning of ecstasy.
Sometimes people travel great lengths or stand in line for multiple hours to buy tickets for a concert, sometimes camp outside overnight among strangers waiting in line for the store to open to buy something they really desire, be it the latest and greatest in electronics or the newest fad in toys for their kids. This shows that all that is necessary is the strength in will and desire and people will stop at nothing to get what they want. But somewhere along the way something happened to food preparation in our culture and cuisine has become just food, just fuel, just something to take in on the go. Cooking as an experience worthy of respect with endless possibilities for enjoyment and pleasure has evolved into a ‘means to an end’ activity that at best is deemed as something that should be “quick and easy”. At worse, cooking has evolved into an activity considered not worth the time by some, or just too complicated by others. I cannot understand this phenomenon.
Having decided when I was in my early 20s that I was going to teach myself how to cook, I then picked up the 1975 edition of that infamous bible of American cooking, Joy of Cooking, which at the time became my encyclopedia of all things culinary. Twenty-some years later, it has followed me everywhere, its binding cracked, with multiple pages wrinkled from moisture, and its 2 red ribbon bookmarks still carefully in place. I guess I selected it over anything Julia wrote seeing how I was in America starting my life as a young adult, and after all, “When in Rome…”
My early 20s and 30s found me pouring myself over this book. Whether it was casseroles, breads, pastries, sauces, I cooked many, many things out of “Joy”. I especially enjoyed reading the introductory portions on each section, be it on the different types of flours, or cuts of meat, or the different types of cakes. I could not get enough of the technical know-how, and found myself steering more and more in the direction of baking as my favorite specialty. I noticed that baking would often be regarded as the “make you or break you” in cooking, considered too much of an “exact science” and enough to turn off some of today’s renowned food celebrities. Maybe from being a science geek, it is this exactness necessary in baking that was precisely what attracted me to it so much in the first place. Rolls, breads, biscuits, cakes, bagels, pretzels… I had to try it all. Every weekend was an experiment in “the home lab” which, to this day is how I refer to my kitchen. It was with much excitement that I discovered when reading Julia Child’s “My Life In France” that she shared in the love of this scientific approach to cooking, taking care to measure, care to know about the ingredients, care to test and optimize recipes. One of the many things I adore about her.
I owe my technical start to Joy of Cooking. But I owe my respect for food to Julia Child. I owe my understanding that it’s not “just about eating” to Julia.
A dear French friend once explained how in France people dine so differently than they do in America. In America dining is all too often hurried and fast-paced, as so many other things are. You sit, are served, you eat, finish, and off you go. “In France,”, he quipped, “dining is an experience!”. An outing to a French restaurant could easily take upwards of 3 to 4 hours, he explained. He said people aren’t in a rush, staring at their watches, making “speed of service” one of the key criteria on which to base their opinion of the establishment. Food has the power to bring people together and take them into that magical world of pleasure and enjoyment. The French understand that. They take nothing for granted when it comes to food.
But we just can’t seem to make the time anymore. Somehow food doesn’t matter. Life has gotten so busy that priorities have shifted, and somehow extra curricular activities 1 through 14 have taken the place of preparing and enjoying food – and I’m not saying every meal should be at least a 5-course feast with lists of at least 20 ingredients. But book after book, cooking show after cooking show, it's all about how “everyone’s lives are busy”, and we need something "quick and easy" in accordance with “today’s busy schedules”. But who created these busy schedules? I say that no one is holding anyone at gunpoint and forcing them to make this their way of life. Nobody said: “Either you involve yourself and your children in 14 different extra curricular activities or your days are numbered.” I believe that this over-involvement epidemic is completely self-imposed. I believe that every ounce of time that people claim to not have is an ounce of time that they took away from themselves. I believe that this “spreading yourself too thin” is by choice. And to each its own, I understand that. It's just a shame. After all, it was Julia herself that said: "You don't have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces - just good food from fresh ingredients."
The thing about Julia Child is that she was about so much more than just cooking. Julia was about appreciating even the simplest things in life. She was about living life to the fullest. She was opinionated and unabashed; a real, down to earth person. She took the time to stop and admire the world around her. She respected and appreciated people for who they were, doing so with stereotype-free eyes, with an open mind, and with such a carefree, “stop to smell the roses” attitude about her surroundings, taking nothing or no one for granted. She had such a passion for cooking perhaps so much so because she had such a passion for life itself, understanding that food is such an integral part of it. She was so much into having fun and enjoying whatever it is that you do in life. I can relate to her personality at so many levels it’s eerily like looking into a mirror as I read about her or watch her in old videos of her shows or interviews. She had precisely that passion and that ‘joie de vivre’ which fuel every step I take every day of my life. She embodied such a wonderfully positive attitude not only about cooking, but about life. I can't love her enough.